With the Falling of the Leaves, a Man's Fancy Turns to Spice
Once upon a time, you could sense the imminent arrival of autumn from the presence of gaily-colored bags of Halloween candy on the shelves. But since that seems to happen now by late July, we must look for other harbingers, and chief among them has been the appearance of pumpkin spice themed products. Despite the widespread backlash against the inclusion of that mix of allspice, ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg in everything from air fresheners to Cheerios, our nation's marketers are generally not deterred. And this brings us to the newest entry in the pumpkin pie sweepstakes, Pumpkin Pie Rice Krispies treats.
Now With Real Pumpkin Flesh!
You may have noticed that these are not merely "pumpkin spice" Rice Krispies treats, but "Pumpkin Pie Rice Krispies Treats" and there is everything in that name. This chewy square doesn't just attempt to conjure up a pumpkin pie of the imagination through the influence of affiliated spices. Rather, a look at the ingredient label confirms that these contain actual dried pumpkin. This might seem a dubious choice to someone who imagines all of the "good" flavors in pumpkin pie to reside in the sugar and spice, which mask a bland, neutral starch base. But Kellogg's is not out of their gourd; they know what they're doing.
What the Pumpkin Adds
The real pumpkin transforms this child's treat, a favorite of class parties and high school bake sales, into an adult delicacy. The pumpkin adds the gravitas of a weighty bass note atop which the pumpkin spices enact a syncopated dance, while the icing – representing the whipped cream – contributes a pleasingly dissonant note of dairy that, in its slight sourness, almost suggests creme fraiche more than straight-up whipped cream. I may have found this sitting on the shelves of the local Wal-Mart, but with more frou-frou packaging, this would be equally at home in a Whole Foods, or even a Dean & DeLuca.
Once upon a time, you could sense the imminent arrival of autumn from the presence of gaily-colored bags of Halloween candy on the shelves. But since that seems to happen now by late July, we must look for other harbingers, and chief among them has been the appearance of pumpkin spice themed products. Despite the widespread backlash against the inclusion of that mix of allspice, ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg in everything from air fresheners to Cheerios, our nation's marketers are generally not deterred. And this brings us to the newest entry in the pumpkin pie sweepstakes, Pumpkin Pie Rice Krispies treats.
 |
| Out of kind consideration for the fact that these are a limited edition item, Kellogg's made sure to make these treats available exclusively in 40-bar packs. The gang around the office was delighted. |
You may have noticed that these are not merely "pumpkin spice" Rice Krispies treats, but "Pumpkin Pie Rice Krispies Treats" and there is everything in that name. This chewy square doesn't just attempt to conjure up a pumpkin pie of the imagination through the influence of affiliated spices. Rather, a look at the ingredient label confirms that these contain actual dried pumpkin. This might seem a dubious choice to someone who imagines all of the "good" flavors in pumpkin pie to reside in the sugar and spice, which mask a bland, neutral starch base. But Kellogg's is not out of their gourd; they know what they're doing.
 |
| The subtle coloration of this variety gives away the presence of finely-ground dried pumpkin. Rather than a manila off-white hue, this bar is a deep dirty-blonde color. The spiced whipped cream is represented by a creme-anglaise-colored icing drizzle. |
The real pumpkin transforms this child's treat, a favorite of class parties and high school bake sales, into an adult delicacy. The pumpkin adds the gravitas of a weighty bass note atop which the pumpkin spices enact a syncopated dance, while the icing – representing the whipped cream – contributes a pleasingly dissonant note of dairy that, in its slight sourness, almost suggests creme fraiche more than straight-up whipped cream. I may have found this sitting on the shelves of the local Wal-Mart, but with more frou-frou packaging, this would be equally at home in a Whole Foods, or even a Dean & DeLuca.
Conclusion: A General Unanimity of Opinions
Our reliable Food Kingdom tester James N. is not generally a fan of pumpkin spice products, but commented that "this one was very subtle, and honestly barely hinted at pumpkin at all, to me. But it was pleasant, nonetheless." But the most heartwarming reaction comes from Maureen F., as related below in our two-image photo essay below.
 |
| Poor Maureen was so repulsed by the Red Slurpee donut that she volunteered to try a few years back that she hasn't tasted anything for the Food Kingdom since.... |
 |
| Maureen is much happier with Pumpkin Pie Rice Krispies Treats, writing "I enjoyed [it]. It tastes like a frosted ginger bread cookie, which puts me in the autumn mood." Click HERE to Like Our Facebook Page and Never Miss a Story! |
